When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.
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